January 09, 2019

Exploring the 4 different skin types - what works, and what doesn’t

Puristry Main Skin Type

Every face has its own unique set of skin concerns and chronic troubles. To put it simply: we’re all different! Because of that, we all have different needs when it comes to skincare and skin nutrition. The first step in figuring out what kinds of ingredients will be most skin-loving for your face is to identify your skin type. There are four different skin types: oily, dry, normal, and combination. Here we’re breaking down the symptoms, likes, dislikes, and major triggers for each.

Oily Skin

Oily

Oily skin refers to a dermis with larger pores that have overactive oil glands, called sebaceous glands. Sebum is the naturally occuring lipid in skin, and while it’s essential for adequate moisture, elasticity and tightness, an overproduction of sebum can result in a shiny or greasy complexion (and clogged pores).

Oily skin generally has adequate moisture levels (or overproduction of it) and because of that, it’s important to steer clear of intensely moisturizing or oil-based ingredients. Some of these ingredients, particularly synthetic versions, are referred to as comedogenic, meaning that on a predetermined scale, they are highly likely to cause pore congestion. Ingredients like shea butter and cocoa butter (both of which become solid at room temperature) are extremely rich balms, high in stearic and oleic acid and comedogenic for oily skin types. Other ingredients like petroleum and mineral oil can also be comedogenic, and are full of impurities that can cause irritation and hormonal disruption.

So what does Oily skin like? Naturally astringent ingredients that cut through oil and reduce shine. Tea tree oil is an excellent plant based tonic for oily types, as it can penetrate deep into pores and unblock sebaceous glands, while imparting its antimicrobial and antibacterial properties into the lipid barrier. Oily skin also likes very lightly hydrating floral waters, which deliver microbeads of healing essential oil, while cleansing skin with H20. At Puristry, we opt for rose water and calendula hydrosol, both featured in the formula of the cult fave Flower Water Toner, and ultra soothing for blemish prone skin.

Dry Skin

Dry

Dry skin describes a skin type that produces and processes sebum less effectively than a ‘normal’ skin type: it can be the result of several different factors. As our bodies age, hormonal changes result in less sebum production and decreased lipid barrier functioning, and because of this, mature skin often means flakey skin or skin with roughness and low moisture levels. Dryness can also be a result of environmental factors–climates with low humidity levels as well as extreme sun exposure can cause and exacerbate skin dryness and trigger associated symptoms like itching and redness.

Dry skin likes rich humectants that help skin retain H20, as well as a lifestyle that focuses on hydration and gentle skincare. There are a variety of plant based humectants that can help your skin retain water–things like algae, sea kelp and chia (all natural ingredients with high water retention properties). Cold pressed fruit and plant oils can also be an excellent source of moisture and essential fatty acids, and a key strategy for repairing and restoring your natural lipid barrier. Puristry’s Restorative Facial Oil is an excellent choice here. Remember that hydration refers to the amount of H20 in your skin, while moisture refers to the lipid barrier. For those suffering from dry skin, both hydration and moisture levels are usually a problem, and a two pronged approach of humectant-based serums and moisturizing oils is the best way to go.

In terms of triggers, stay away from products that are overly astringent, stripping, or clarifying–any product that causes a reduction in epidermal lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Alcohols, witch hazel, apple cider vinegar, and citrus juice are all no-gos.

Normal Skin

Normal

‘Normal’ skin refers to a well-balanced complexion that neither over-produces nor underproduces sebum and that has a balanced and matte T-zone. In other words, those of use with ‘normal’ skin are somewhat genetically blessed, with fine pores, good circulation, and a resistance to sensitivity, redness, and breakouts.

Normal skin likes light moisture, as even healthy lipid layers are exposed to daily environmental stress like wind, UV rays, and other weather. If everyday makeup application is part of the daily routine of a person with ‘normal’ skin, it’s important that they use a gentle everyday cleanser, like Puristry’s Nopal Cactus Cleanser. This formula contains yuzu citrus to gently encourage healthy skin cell turnover, without stripping the lipid layer.

As a person with normal skin ages, dryness can become more of an issue, so triggers for dry skin types (any reduction in epidermal lipids due to environmental or hormonal changes) will become more of an issue. Opt for balanced products and light everyday maintenance: aloe water is a great everyday product, as is coconut oil, which is non comedogenic for a person with healthy lipid function, as well as antibacterial.

Combo Skin

Combination

Combination skin refers to skin that suffers from oiliness and dryness simultaneously: usually oil over-production will be found in the T zone, and dryness will be found in the cheeks and around the jaw line. Most people have some degree of combination skin, and it’s perfectly normal to need to spot treat with different products in different regions of your face.

As with oily skin, the blemish prone or oily parts of a combination face suffer from sebum overproduction, and will typically respond well to plant based astringent acne treatments like tea-tree oil and willow bark. Small lifestyle tweaks can also make a huge difference: keep your hands off of your face, and make sure you use a soft sponge to buff away impurities and dead skin at night as part of your cleansing routine.

For the regions of a combination face that suffer from dryness, avoid applying harsh chemicals or foaming cleansers which will strip your skin of its natural oils. Buffing is also equally important for dry areas, in order to remove dead skin, encourage skin cell turnover, and reduce flaking. Sea sponges are great for combination skin, but a clean face towel and some warm water will also do the trick. And pro trip: it’s important to avoid products containing silicone, which can both exacerbate acne and irritate dry areas, ultimately entrenching both problems in combo skin complexions.

No matter which of the different skin types applies to you, don’t be discouraged by finding the perfect skin routine for you! Opt for organic ingredients, skip out on harsh chemicals, and always patch-test before beginning regular use!


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